Might Callaways' next iron set point of emphasis be a smooth transition from the set matching pw to the add on wedges ? I use Steelhead XR's with Matrix Program F-15 shafts that are far and away the best performing clubs I have ever used. My wedges around the green are a strong part of my game but full shots with my sand and lob wedge feel so different that what should be birdie ops turn into hit and hope to make par. I assume the heavy head of today's wedges must require heavier shafts, but is there any way the weight of the heads vs shafts could come in line to produce similar feel to the other short irons ?
@GregW4900 doubt they'd cater wedges to specific irons sets. I take the opposite approach in that I match my wedge shafts to my iron shafts. I have XP 95 shafts in my current irons and also have the same shaft in both my MD3 wedge and PM Grind wedge.
Yea PC98, I agree they won't cater these to individual sets and I'd like to put my light weight graphite shafts in high end Cally wedges as you do with the XP 95's. How do your shafts compare to standard 'wedge flex' shafts in weight ? Right now my wedges feel clunky and changing to a lighter shaft would I assume make that worse.
@GregW4900 my XP 95's in the wedges are great for me. I just like to know I have the same shaft all the way down. I actually have a standard PM grind with a 125g shaft in it and the difference between that and my other with the XP 95 is very noticeable. I don't like heavy clubs, all my clubs from Driver through wedge use very light weight shafts. Like anything else you just need to get used to the feel of either using heavy wedges or using lighter shafts. Of note, even with the lighter shafts in wedges they will still feel a little heavier than your standard irons just based on the fact the heads are solid for the most part.
I think that is going to be a little difficult to do as wedges are really meant for a different purpose than they irons. It would be like trying to actually match a traditional hybrid in to a set of irons. With totally different head designs the club will sound and perform slightly different regardless of how well you match. I would suggest buying the AW and SW if your particular set goes that far down, and then just add the additional wedges after the set stops. That will give you the most consistent flow as far down as possible. Also, you can make sure the non matching wedges are set up as closely as possible to the specs of the set, but it will still be a slight difference.
robbyporter, thanks for the reply. You are right about the difficulty and I understand the different shots we use with these clubs. I just believe if pros were using shafts and heads of similar make up as most amateurs they would have wedges made to conform with those sets. I could get a matching AW (gap) wedge but don't want to lose the feel of a traditional wedge around the greens. Probably not a demand for this and could just be my problem, but they crank out new drivers at $400+ every year that go 5yds closer to the hole but I'd rather be 5 yds closer from 100yds and in !
For me I look at my wedge game as a totally different game from the irons and woods. I could probably count on one hand the number of full wedge shots I hit in a year. Wedges are flighted for me either down or up to get exactly what i want out of my shot. My irons I want to be exactly the same everytime and my wedges i might not hit that shot again for three or four weeks. I think there is a big difference it the way shots are played that is why there is a difference is weight. Even look at the pro's and how many full shots they hit with wedges not very many cause they are trying to control distance and trajectory.
Thanks ChristopherV1a1, I too often use a partial swing with my wedges, but I usually have a few full wedges per round. When I'm synched in with them I like to lay up as close as possible to a full wedge yardage and skip the choking down or easing off. Less guess work and my full wedge swing is shorter and hopefully more controlled than longer irons. Just seems if the feel were closer to the rest of my set these shots would be simpler. Appreciate everyone's feedback tho; seems like more people have their own way of dealing with this issue, which makes it an issue, right ?
@GregW4900 in the SH XR line, you always have the option of adding more wedges in the SH XR line...AW949), SW(54), and LW(59). If you need to hit full shots with wedges, you could always add a couple of these.
Like others have said, once I get out of my sets PW (47), I rarely hit full shots. Most everything is some sort of partial shot. I look at the wedge game as a chance to be Philly Mick creative.
@Stumpnavyea I hear you, just was afraid my touch around the greens would disappear with a head that isn't a traditional wedge design. I assume these would be cavity backs and I'm not ready to make that move. Thx